The World of SPF Is Changing Rapidly. We Tapped an Expert Dermatologist to Bring Us Up to Speed.

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The sun is (basically) out and summer has (almost) begun, leaving many to rev up their SPF arsenal like a bull winding up its leg before it enters into the chute. 

However, something has happened to good ol’ fashioned sunscreen. It’s not sunscreen anymore—it’s skincare. Hell…it’s fashion.

No more crazy over-the-counter sprays with ingredients that look like they were made in a gas station. No more highlighter-colored zinc creams that make your nose look green for six hours after getting out of the pool. We’ve entered into an SPF revolution, where skin types, tones, and textures of all kinds can now maintain their daily routines with maximum protection, and it’s a space that is only growing with time.

I wanted to understand this “skinification” effect on SPF, what in the Sun God’s name we’re meant to be looking for when we hunt for our UV Holy Grails, and whether or not the same rules still apply in our daily routines.

Desperate to see the light, I connected with Dr. Elizabeth K. Hale, M.D., who is currently leading the charge as Chief Medical Advisor to Vacation®. In her “free time,” she is also Clinical Associate Professor of Dermatology at NYU Langone Medical Center, Senior Vice President of The Skin Cancer Foundation, and owner / founder of CompleteSkinMD in NYC.

SPF: Then & Now

“Skinification” is a real thing that is touching every part of beauty these days. From scalp care to body care to makeup, there is no longer a separation between our everyday wellness rituals, clean beauty standards, and skincare routines. 

Dr. Hale clarified that—as a part of this transition—ingredients or benefits we typically associate with facial skincare (such as hydration, barrier support, antioxidants, soothing ingredients and daily protection), are now being prioritized across categories…including SPF.

“I think the shift is driven by a few things: consumers are more ingredient-literate. They are thinking about skin health more holistically, and they want products that do more than one thing. That’s especially important with sunscreen. If a formula is hydrating, sheer, feels good and fun to apply, or is easier to incorporate into someone’s routine, they are more likely to use it consistently,” she shared. 

In the (g)olden days, we used to associate SPF with a thick, sticky formula that left behind white cast, didn’t sit well under makeup, or stayed on the skin long after multiple olympic showers. But now, with so many brands optimizing the “old SPF guard,” Dr. Hale suggests that sunscreen is becoming less of a chore. “Today, we’re seeing improved textures, sheer and tinted mineral formulas, lightweight lotions, gels, sprays, and more playful formulations that make daily use feel easier,” highlighting once again that—especially as it applies to SPF—optimal protection comes from consistent, daily use.

How to Choose the Right Protection

We hear the term SPF and immediately correlate it with “protection.” But the reality is not all sunscreens / SPFs perform the same. Especially given that there has also been a large emphasis on more mineral-based sunscreens that leverage zinc oxide and titanium dioxide instead of ingredients like oxybenzone, octinoxate, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate and avobenzone, there has been a lot of discourse about what is actually effective and how much we actually need in our daily applications.

Dr. Hale explained, “Zinc oxide is especially helpful because it provides broad UVA and UVB coverage, while titanium dioxide is also an effective mineral filter and often helps improve texture and wear. The FDA has also found sufficient safety data to support zinc oxide and titanium dioxide as generally recognized as safe and effective for sunscreen use at concentrations up to 25%.”

However, she warns that a higher percentage of zinc doesn’t necessarily guarantee a better sunscreen if the overall formula is not well-made. She instead emphasizes focusing on the efficacy of protection above all else, suggesting SPF30 or higher, with enough product applied to all exposed skin across the face and body.

I asked if we should be considering different types of SPF for different parts of our body, and she said, “For the face, people often want something lightweight, non-comedogenic, sheer, compatible with makeup and appropriate for their skin type. For the body, they may prefer a lotion, spray, stick or larger-format product that is easy to apply generously. I always say the best SPF is the one you’ll actually use!”

The Truth About the Sun

While a woman in wellness, I will admit that I can—from time to time—intentionally forget to apply my SPF when the sun is out, embarking on a Melanin Mission of sunkissed vitality. My friends even report it is my only…vice!  “Rawdogging it” in the sun is good for you sometimes, right?

Dr. Hale broke it down for me: “Spending time outdoors is important. I would never want to discourage people from going outdoors and having fun. The goal is not to avoid the sun completely, but to be smart about UV protection, and find an SPF formula you actually like using and will wear consistently. And for activities like hiking or spending extended time outdoors, sunscreen should be paired with other smart habits, like wearing a hat and sunglasses and staying in the shade whenever possible.”

She mentioned that the UV rays are strongest from 10am to 4pm, which basically means we should be sunscreen’d whenever we are exposed to daylight. Even when the sun is hiding behind clouds, UVA rays are present year-round and can penetrate clouds and windows, contributing to premature aging and skin cancer risk.

Weaving Sunscreen Into Your Routine

Those of us who are into #DeepSkincare have likely been taught that any good morning skincare routine holds space for SPF as the final step on top of your moisturizer. As a Virgo woman, I wanted to understand if the new wave of sunscreen → skincare meant that we could consolidate our routine, combining sunscreen and moisturizer into one.

Although Dr. Hale is fine with a multi-tasking moisturizer / SPF combo, she still wants it labeled broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher.

“I still like to think of SPF as the last skincare step before makeup. If your SPF is hydrating enough, it can absolutely replace a separate moisturizer in the morning for many skin types. But makeup with SPF, or a small amount of tinted moisturizer, is usually not enough on its own. And it’s important to remember that sunscreen still needs to be reapplied approximately every two hours when you’re outdoors, if you're sweating or after swimming.”

As for which use cases need what, Dr. Hale provided a helpful guide for the summer ahead:

• Day-to-day living: “For everyday use, I recommend a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher that you genuinely like wearing. That might be a lightweight lotion, a moisturizer with SPF, a tinted mineral sunscreen, or a formula that layers well under makeup. Focus on exposed areas like the face, neck, chest, ears and backs of hands.”

• Summer Beach Holiday: “I’d level up to a broad-spectrum SPF 50 or higher, ideally water-resistant for 80 minutes. Apply generously before going outside and reapply every two hours, as well as after swimming, sweating or towel-drying.”

• Afternoon Hike: “I’d use something durable and sweat-resistant. A lotion works well as your base layer before heading out, and sticks or sprays can be great for reapplication on the trail, especially for areas that are easy to miss like the ears, lips, scalp or hair part, neck, and hands.”

What’s Keeping Us Covered 

I know I admitted that I can be SPF-negligent at times, but I don’t want you to think that means that I don’t have high standards for the times I do seek protection (I’ll get better, I swear). Below are 10 of our favorite SPF delivery systems for every occasion that are prioritizing ingredients that won’t hurt your skin, the sea, or your routine.