Late Checkout: Why Cairo Is Worth the Long Trip

Understandably, the Great Pyramids of Egypt may be on your bucket list, but the rest of the city of Cairo may not be. And that’s probably because it’s not associated with the polish of cities like London or Madrid or the international splendor of Marakkesh. The lack of traffic control alone can be enough to keep one away. But behind the mayhem of rush hour and the crumbling glamour is a metropolis rich in culture; its world-class museums, underrated food, artisan discoveries and art deco facades are meant to be explored carefully – and slowly. This is not a gateway city but rather one that demands some attention.

As the first civilization (ever!) Egypt has tons to offer, and Cairo – which has an intersection that replicates the Champs d’Elysees – is at the epicenter of the action. And with major hotel groups resurrecting properties all over the city, it’s clear that it’s becoming more and more of a destination for travelers. Come for the Great Spynx, stay for everything else. 

To Stay

While The Four Seasons might be the obvious choice in a sprawling, chaotic city like Cairo, we went rogue and rented an art deco-designed apartment that I couldn’t stop thinking about after seeing it in World of Interiors. But this was no random Airbnb – rather, a meticulously curated group of apartments with original herringbone floors, high ceiling and vintage furniture (which could rival any Paris apartment)! Plus, they are operated by a group who also oversees the Set Nefru Nile cruise, and Al Moudir, potentially the most fabulous hotel ever – so you know you’re in good hands. 

Team it with a personal butler and chef for meals, and a personal driver and you’ve found yourself one cool stay. Disclaimer: while the 1940s building is legendary (all the celebrities, artists and musicians used to live there!) it’s completely run down and in a dire need of a refurb. So for those who want “luxury,” please make your way to the Four Seasons.

To See

The Grand Egyptian Museum has been in the works for…twenty years. That’s right, since the early aughts. Now, as the largest museum in the world, visitors are able to move through Egypt’s entire history from ground zero (10,000 BC) to “modern times” (when Romans dominated). It’s a long but easy visit and is absolutely fascinating. 

You’re probably used to the ornate, Baroque styles of the European houses of worship, but in Cairo, the mosque and churches are other-worldly, in that some date back to 4,000BC (before gold leaf was born!). The few synagogues that are left are giant reminders of the past, as the nation’s Jewish population was forced out in the 1960s (the synagogues are privately funded and used by expats at this point).

And now, the main event; the Pyramids. Over one hundred pyramids are nestled on the outskirts of Cairo and while you’re able to visit inside, those who are claustrophobic (hi!) should hang back and take it all in from the outside. Freaky fact: one king, and one king alone was buried in each pyramid, and his wives were buried in tiny pyramids next door. Over the years, looters ripped the gold-containing points off the pyramids, along with jewelry that kings were buried in. Nice.

To Shop

There is plenty of beautiful pottery to be purchased and Anut, a new store from the Malaika Linens duo, carries it in spades. Trays, bowls and boxes are all for the taking – if you can fit it in your luggage, that is. The Aswan Spice Market (with an outpost in Cairo) is the spot to find organic spices and teas to bring home. We scooped everything from “Nubian coffee” (coffee with spices), to “Energy tea” and Golden milks. Alef Gallery is a shop whispered by those truly in-the-know, as the multi-room store carries everything from glassware to rolls of fabrics for custom tablecloths, to giant hand-painted trays. Home design nerds will linger for way too long wondering how to bring back all the special treasures. 

But the biggest find was Wassef Women’s Collective, a center built for women to carry out the decades-long tradition of weaving tapestries with naturally derived colors and authentic techniques. Here, girls as young as ten start the weaving practice after school, and can create a living for themselves for years to come. The tapestries are shown in museums, galleries and can be purchased, in celebration of creativity and community.

To Eat

Egypt is not exactly billed as a food-forward town, but meet the right people and they just might direct you to the alleyway cafe with the best stuffed pigeon or the stand with the “trusted” falafel. Cafe Riche, where poets and writers spent their days, is more of an institution than a cuisine destination, while Zooba, is a small cafe that aims to bring street food to the masses (think yummy shawarma and plenty of moussaka). While locals think it’s a rip-off (you can get a skewer for one dollar on the street as opposed to seven at the restaurant), it gained so much popularity that there is now a huge outpost in the Grand Egyptian Museum. 

El Fisherwy is a must drive-by while zig-zagging through the souk, as it’s the oldest coffee shop and feels straight out of a time capsule. Oversized goldleaf mirrors, vintage chandeliers and wood paneling add to a charm that’s not easy to find in a city of crumbling beauty. For a sweet treat, don’t miss Oman Al-Dimashqy, the oldest Syrian bakery that serves up honey-fied pastries from the homeland.

But I did manage to have one “wow” meal, thanks to Brit chef Laura Jackson’s substack who mentioned that Almeria was her best meal in Cairo. And truly, it was mine too. I didn’t know that Egyptian cuisine could feel elevated, complex, and all-around sophisticated in the way this (causal) restaurant presented dishes. It was a stand-out. And the best part? The bill for two was a mere $20. Just one more reason to visit this incredible city.