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When most people picture an African safari, they think of open-air Land Cruisers, bumpy game drives, and binoculars scanning the horizon. It’s the classic safari scene, and for good reason. But on a recent trip through Botswana, I discovered a different kind of safari altogether—one that trades tires for water and offers a front-row seat to the wild from the bow of a boat.
Water safaris are quietly (and quickly) becoming one of Africa’s most coveted travel experiences. In a country like Botswana, where rivers, floodplains, and seasonal waterways shape much of the terrain, it makes perfect sense. I spent two weeks drifting along the Chobe River and through the Okavango Delta, staying at three incredible Desert & Delta lodges: Chobe Game Lodge, Nxamaseri Island Lodge, and Xugana Island Lodge. What I found was a slower and more intentional way to experience wildlife—one that offers just as much excitement, but at a completely different speed.

Chobe Game Lodge
My journey began at Chobe Game Lodge, one of Botswana’s most iconic properties. Opened in 1973 on the banks of the Chobe River, it was the first—and remains the only—permanent lodge inside Chobe National Park. Over the years, it has welcomed royalty, conservationists, and celebrities alike. (Famously, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton secretly remarried here.). But despite its storied past, Chobe is also one of the most progressive lodges in the region. It’s a rare find that offers both traditional game drives and river-based safaris, making it the perfect place to ease into things.


Because the lodge sits inside the park, guests are literally the first ones in the bush each morning, meaning wildlife sightings are almost guaranteed. My days started bouncing across the plains in search of lions, giraffes, and leopards, guided by one of the legendary Chobe Angels—Botswana’s first all-female guiding team. After hours spent tracking animals on game drives, breakfast felt well-earned, followed by a leisurely afternoon to relax and recharge.



But come late afternoon, I was gliding down the Chobe River on a silent, solar-powered electric boat—wine in hand—as herds of elephants (the park is home to over 120,000) gathered to swim, drink, and splash in the water. Thanks to the quiet, eco-friendly boats, you can get within feet of the action without disturbing the wildlife or kicking up dust.


Nxamaseri Island Lodge
From the riverbanks of Chobe, my journey took me further into Botswana’s watery heartlands to Nxamaseri Island Lodge. Located in the lesser-known panhandle region of the Okavango Delta, and reached only by boat, this intimate, eight-suite lodge feels completely off the map. Here, it isn’t about ticking off the Big Five. The focus shifts to birdlife, fishing, and simply just being on the Delta.


Mornings meant drifting through glassy, lily-lined channels with guides who grew up along these banks and know every twist of the river by heart. (Trust me, it almost feels like a labyrinth.) The birdwatching here is one of the best, with fish eagles circling overhead, bee-eaters flashing by, and jacanas darting across lily pads like they’re late for something. And if fishing’s more your thing (or even if it’s not), catch-and-release tigerfishing is on offer too. And, because the lodge is so small and intimate, you naturally get to know the staff, which makes the place feel less like a hotel and more like staying with old friends.




Xugana Island Lodge
My final stop was Xugana Island Lodge, set on one of the Okavango Delta’s most beautiful permanent lagoons. Xugana recently underwent a full refresh, and it shows. The lodge has just eight suites, so it’s ultra-intimate, but the redesign leans into a more elevated, design-centric approach. Think of it as glamping with real polish: canvas suites that look more like standalone villas, with floor-to-ceiling windows that frame the views like artwork. Inside, there are plush canopy beds, open-plan layouts with workspaces and lounges, and bathrooms that feel downright luxurious, complete with double vanities and both indoor and open-air rainfall showers. The whole space is designed to disappear into nature, and it does it with ease.



Speaking of nature, with no game vehicles on-site, this is a water- and walking-only safari experience. Mornings and sunset hours were spent out on the water in small motorboats, cruising through zig-zagging channels while scanning for hippos, crocodiles, and the occasional fish eagle. Midday brought guided island walks, where guides would help me track zebra and elephant prints through the sand while looking for animals hiding in the trees. As for sundown? That was easily the best part. Drifting through the channels as the sky shifted from bright yellow to rich oranges, everything seemed to slow down. Before I knew it, the sky deepened into a deep blue and then rich violet, with only the sounds of hippos in the distance. It made for the perfect end to every day on the Delta.


So, Why Water Safaris?
So, why water safaris—and why now? For starters, they open a door to ecosystems that traditional game drives simply can’t reach. Much of Botswana’s wilderness floods seasonally, and boats can navigate places even the toughest Land Cruiser can’t. But it’s more than just access. Water safaris cater to a new kind of traveler, one who values a slower pace, sustainability, and a quieter, more intentional connection with nature. And after watching elephants swim across the Chobe River at sunset from the calm of a boat with an Okavango gin and tonic in hand, I realized this isn’t just a different way to safari, it’s a whole new way to experience Africa. Once you’ve had that moment, there’s no going against the current.


