Courmayeur Is Your Summertime Alpine Playground

In my capacity as a travel advisor, I’m seeing an uptick in interest in European destinations off the coast and off-the-beaten-path. Instead of squeezing between fellow travelers on Venice’s sweltering streets and bridges, for example, I see people heading north to the Dolomites. Or heading into neighboring Switzerland for its mountains and lakes instead of crowded beaches. Even just a few years ago, beaches still reigned supreme. Now they have competition.  

And so, when I had the opportunity to join a handful of other advisors for a trip to discover the ins and outs of Courmayeur, I leaped at it. And I’m so glad that I did — the food, the wine, the mountain air, the laissez-faire, the hiking, the spas, the natural splendor. I can see why the Milanese make this a regular weekend getaway spot and only wish I could do the same. 

Where in the world Is Courmayeur? 

Let’s start with the basics. You can arrive in Courmayeur from Milan (a 3 hour drive), from France (via the Mont Blanc tunnel), or from Geneva (only an hour’s drive away). In the Dolomites, Italy’s buzziest mountain range, you’re met with the unique and fantastic mix of Swiss / Austrian / Italian Alpine cuisine and culture. And in Courmayeur, the lean is more French / Swiss / Italian. (But please don’t tell the Italians that I said that, they’re a bit touchy about the area being called French.) 

Mont Blanc is the highest mountaintop in Italy. So even in the summer when you take the Mont Blanc Skyway all the way up, which I recommend you do, you’ll find it still covered with at least a dusting of snow. A bit closer to sea level, in town, you’ll find the temperatures gorgeous and the sun shining on charming, cobbled streets dotted with cute shops and cafes. And, if this is important to you, you’ll also be surrounded by Italians, French, Brits, Swiss — and very few Americans.

I recommend combining this with either a city stay or something extra luxurious. Personally, I went from Courmayeur to Lake Como and I consider that pairing a ten-out-of-ten. But you could start or end with a city stay in Geneva or Milan, or head to the coast along the French Riviera (about a 5 hour drive). Unless you live close enough, I don’t see Courmayeur as a singular destination but more something to tack on to another place. 

Pro tip: If you’re driving from Milan, stop for lunch and a little wine tasting at Les Cretes. An ideal chance to stretch your legs and perhaps grab a bottle of Chardonnay. (The family has been growing wine since the 1700s!) 

What Are We Doing in Courmayeur? 

Summer in this part of the world is about three top priorities, with a few extras sprinkled in. You’re here for fresh air adventures, wellness, and food. That there’s great shopping in town and local music festivals to enjoy as well is frosting on the cake. 

In the morning, you’ll hike along a quiet and wildflower-dotted trail in the Val Ferret or Val Veny, affording you sweeping glacier and mountain views as you go. Back at the hotel, you’ll make time for a sauna and swim in the spa before getting changed for lunch in town. You’ll find a table outside in the sun and order a risotto or a beautifully prepared local trout. A bottle of white for the table. You’ll take your time, having a salad speckled with local cheeses first and an espresso with a Mont Blanc ice cream at the end. You’ll watch as each shop around you turns off their lights and locks their doors from noon to at least 3pm. Everyone’s out, and by now the kids have hopped up from the tables and are playing in the piazza. 

This afternoon, if you’re not napping, you’ll head to the Mont Blanc Skyway to check out the Infinity Room and take the cable car up to the top of Italy. Ideally, you’re back in town by sunset for an aperitivo. Then, it’s dinner at the divine Cadran Solaire or Grand Hotel Courmayeur’s Le Fourchette restaurant. I don’t think a better day has ever been had by anyone. 

But don’t worry, you have barely scratched the surface. There are enough diversions here that tomorrow will look entirely different. And the next day, too. You’ll go white water rafting or horseback riding and lunch in a mountain rifugio. You’ll play golf in the morning or go trout fishing and take the cable car up for a late lunch on the terrace at La Chaumiere. You’ll hire a guide to take you glacier hiking or hide out in the spa all day. 

What I found most alluring about Courmayeur, beyond its outstanding natural beauty and the food that I couldn’t stop eating, was how open-arms it felt. It is at once a quietly elegant and a choose-your-own-adventure destination — hike, bike, raft, or don’t; then dress for dinner. 

Where Are We Staying? 

For your luxe family stay, you’re going to the Grand Hotel Courmayeur — the food is excellent, the rooms are oversized with mountain views, the service is warm, and they are expanding their spa and building an outdoor pool specifically to offer even more to their summertime guests. Not to mention, it has an enviable location on a hill just a five minute walk into town. 

Auberge de la Maison is your more boutique and traditionally Alpine chalet with absolutely incredible food and its Aubergine restaurant (you’ll want to book a table here even if you’re not staying). And for your grown up spa-focused stay, it’ll be QC Terme with its thermal baths, bio-saunas and cinema sauna, indoor and outdoor pools, and even a face gym. 

As is true almost everywhere in Italy, kids are welcomed happily. But there are, of course, some stays that cater more to families. At the Grand Hotel Courmayeur spa, I befriended a toddler who was enjoying the spa (quietly, I might add!) with his parents. He swam and splashed, he laid on a lounge chair while mom sauna’d, he giggled and waved, and no one in the room batted an eye. As a mother myself, it was a delight to see. There’s no question that I’ll be bringing my son with me next time. 

What to Pack 

While I was there in still-cold weather, I got a really good sense of how I’d do it in the summertime, too. So, here’s what I brought and what I will bring next time: 

There’s no question that you’ll need swimsuits in any season. (See: spas) My forever two-piece is from Monday swimwear — the Morocco top and the Seychelles bottoms. My forever one-piece is from Quince. 

I also like to supercharge spa days with some of my own products, like this pack of sheet masks from Dr Jart and my trusty Ouai leave-in conditioner. 

I’ve long been a Nike girl, so I’ll bring my latest colorway of the Pegasus Trail Runners for summertime hikes. 

My Jenni Kayne cocoon cashmere cardigan was an absolute hero piece for making my otherwise functional clothes look somewhat cute by day and paired with black tee and black jeans by night for dinner by the fire. 

There’s no need for heels on cobbled streets, but you do still want to look put together for some of your dinners here. Classic Chanel ballet flats will never do you wrong. 

I’ve searched and road tested countless white t-shirts and my all-time favorites now are Buck Mason. I like both the slim and the easy fits and both came along with me on this trip and were put to good use. 

No one wants to talk about what happens to your regular rhythms (or, rather, doesn’t happen) when you’re traveling. So at the risk of offering up TMI, a fellow travel advisor friend told me to get this from Amazon and I… now need to spread the gospel.