Late Checkout: 45,000 Steps in the Eternal City

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My first visit to Rome in high school was spent visiting archaeological sites and historical landmarks, exploring the rich cultural landscape of the city. My second visit to Rome in college was mostly spent drinking wine. And this August, on my third visit, I enjoyed Rome like an ancient proverb suggested: as the Romans do – spontaneously and slowly, without plans, tickets, or reservations. 

The city truly has something for everyone – history buffs, food lovers, fashion aficionados, and art enthusiasts alike. With so much to see, do, and eat, you could spend weeks in Rome just scratching the surface of all the Eternal City has to offer. But 72 hours gives you more than enough time to check some of the big sites off your bucket list and simultaneously slow down, stroll, and explore a taste of life the Roman way. Let’s get our steps in.

To Stay: 

If you’re anything like me, in a city like Rome, you’ll probably want to spend more time out and about than inside and horizontal. That said, after clocking 17,167 steps  (my daily maximum from this trip) you’ll want somewhere comfortable to kick your feet up – and blast some AC if it’s summer – at the end of the day. 

There is no shortage of hotel options where you can find just that in Rome, but below are some of the dreamiest spots. Prices for these hotels can vary greatly by time of year, so instead of listing prices, I went with general ranges ($ = most affordable, $$$ = most expensive).

• Casa Monti: If you’re looking for a luxurious place to unwind after a long day of exploring, this five-star, design-forward boutique hotel fits the bill. Art lovers will appreciate the decor, which blends Roman opulence with bohemian eclectic style. With a top-of-the-line spa, buzzy bar, and stunning rooftop made for soaking up the Italian sunshine , this swanky spot is the perfect resting place for a lavish vacation. ($$$)
• Hotel Chapter Roma: If you’re not looking for it, you might miss this contemporary boutique hotel. An unassuming door on the charming and historic cobblestone streets of Regola welcomes you to this funky, contemporary spot. The rooms are simple but well-curated, the staff is friendly, and the rooftop bar is a great place to catch the sunset. ($$)
• The Rome EDITION:  As a Marriott brand, the EDITION combines the intimate feel of a boutique hotel with the range of services and amenities you’d expect from a chain. This elegant option is in a prime location, walking distance from major tourist attractions like Villa Borghese and the Trevi Fountain. ($$$)
• Je Rome: This new boutique hotel in the city center offers spacious, clean, contemporary rooms and wonderful service. It’s tucked away on a quiet street, but in close proximity to many of Rome’s historical sites and tourist attractions. ($$) 

To Do

There is no “right” way to spend 72 hours in Rome. If you’re visiting for the first time, I’d highly recommend slotting in time for visiting a few of the city’s archeological and cultural sites. If you enjoy wandering and stumbling upon hidden gems, pick a few neighborhoods and just let your feet lead you. I’ve broken down activities into the following four categories: see, eat, drink, shop. Mix and match a few activities from each category, or go all in on one. It’s your vacation after all. 

To See:

In many cities, a historical outing would require going to a museum. In Rome, history is everywhere. The city is built on layers of history and marked by the many eras it has witnessed, from the Roman empire to the Renaissance. Just walking down a random street in Rome can feel like a jaunt through an exhibit, but to learn more about the history and culture of the city check out one of the many historical sites: 

• Colosseum, Roman Forum, Palatine Hill: All walking distance from each other (and often included in one singular ticket) these ruins  tell the story of the Roman Empire. Palatine Hill, considered the birthplace of Rome, overlooks the Colosseum and Roman Forum, which were once the centers for entertainment and civic life, respectively. It’s a pretty spectacular experience to stand among these ruins and imagine how ancient Romans walked the same grounds thousands of years ago.
• Vatican City: Religious or not, a visit to the Vatican is a worthwhile visit, especially for art lovers. Saint Peter’s Basilica and the Sistine Chapel are home to some of the most famous Renaissance and Baroque masterpieces; the buildings truly are masterpieces in their own right. Crowds can get heavy, so try going early.
• Borghese Gallery: When it was first established, the Borghese Gallery was a private collection of the Italian noble family. Today, on its original palatial grounds, the gallery is now open to the public. You’ll find iconic Renaissance and Baroque works from the likes of Bernini, Raphael, and Caravaggio. The building itself, with its intricate frescoed ceilings and grand baroque architecture, is just as magnificent as the collection it houses. Tickets are limited and must be booked in advance.
• Trevi Fountain: This Baroque fountain attracts hoards of visitors looking to leave Rome with a little good fortune. While the crowds can be overwhelming, the fountain itself is spectacular. If you don’t want to wait to have your own Lizzie McGuire moment and toss a coin in the fountain, just walking by and marvelling at the fountain should suffice. 

To Eat:

On a trip to Rome, a meal is not just a stop for sustenance, it is an activity in and of itself. The main event even. Rome is truly a food-lovers paradise, with traditional, simple dishes that turn humble ingredients into something memorable. Whether you’re looking for a restaurant worthy of a special occasion or a quick and delicious midday pit stop, this city will not let you down.

• Roscioli: This Roman institution has four locations in the city, all offering a slightly different but equally delicious experience.
  
  • Roscioli Caffe´: Grab a coffee and a sweet treat to go, or sit down and enjoy a casual lunch. I’m still thinking about the pizza bianca. 
  • Salumeria Roscioli: The deli has a wide selection of artisanal groceries for purchase, as well as grab-and-go bites like sandwiches and pizza. You’ll know you’re there when you see a long line and groups of people crowded around pizza boxes enjoying their well-deserved spoils.
  • Antico Forno Roscioli: The first location of the Roscioli brand is best-known for its breads and Roman street foods like suppli. 
  • Rimessa Roscioli: A full-service restaurant with an a la carte menu focused on the best ingredients. There’s a huge wine selection and the restaurant even offers lively wine and food pairing events. 

• Poldo e Gianna Osteria: We stumbled upon this Michelin guide spot located in a quiet alley. There’s a lovely patio where you can enjoy a leisurely lunch; inside, the restaurant has a refined feel. 
• Trattoria Della Stampa: This cozy spot is set back on a quiet street just steps away from the Trevi Fountain. The restaurant has a homey, low-key feel with just a handful of tables, heavy pours of wine, and simply delicious dishes. Try some of the Roman classics, like carbonara or cacio e pepe, and finish the meal off with the Nutella tiramisu. 
• Enoteca Corsi: This family-run spot delivers great food in a relaxed atmosphere. Expect friendly service, a local feel, and traditional dishes that are simple but full of flavor.
• Antico Forno Urbani: An old-school Roman bakery in the Jewish Ghetto loved for its authentic feel, delicious pizza, and affordable prices. Try the pizza rossa as a light lunch or snack after exploring the neighborhood, and enjoy in one of the many parks nearby. 
• Al Pompiere Roma: Another Jewish quarter favorite for classic Roman fares. Try the Jewish-style artichokes, a deep-fried, crispy, crunchy artichoke that is a signature dish of the neighborhood.
• La Matriciana dal 1870: This old-school eatery has been around since 1870. It has an elegant, but unfussy vibe and a wide selection of Roman classics, Italian favorites, and comforting dishes you’ll tell your friends at home about. 

To Drink:

Apertivo hour is an Italian ritual, and as a visitor it is only right to honor the local customs. Do so with light bites and a great Italian wine or a crisp spritz. Below are some great spots to get a pre-dinner drink and post-dinner drink, because Rome stays alive well into the early hours.  

• Alto: With panoramic views of the city, this is an ideal spot for a pre-dinner apertivo.
• L’Oratorio Trastevere: Tucked away in the courtyard of a chapel this place feels like a secret. The atmosphere is lively and local, and they have aperol spritz on tap. 
• Bar San Calisto: Stop by this all-day cafe for an espresso, maritozzo, and people-watching  in the morning or a peroni and mingling in the evening. 
• Jerry Thomas Speakeasy: This speakeasy cocktail bar is by reservation only. Make one in advance and enjoy a night of elevated cocktails in a moody, secretive spot.
• L’Angolo Divino: A small, cozy wine bar that feels like you’re sitting in a wine cellar. Enjoy a glass, or bottle, from the extensive wine list and a cheese plate to cap off a day of sightseeing.

To Shop: 

Home to iconic fashion houses like Prada, Gucci, and Versace, Italy is a paradise for shoppers too. But if luxury brands aren’t really your speed, do not fret. The city has a strong vintage scene, plenty of  local designers, markets, and specialty stores loaded with gastronomical goodies worth checking out too. 

• Via dei Condotti: If you’re looking to make a luxury purchase, this is where you’ll want to start. Right by the Spanish Steps, this strip is bustling with tourists and shoppers. Prada, Bottega Veneta, and Gucci are just some of the designers you’ll find. Luxury shops are dotted all around the Piazza Di Spagna, so I highly suggest strolling around and seeing what you find, but this street is a great destination to begin your shopping journey.
• Borghetto Flaminio Market: If you happen to be in Rome on Sundays, check out this vintage market. A €1.50 entrance fee gives you access to hundreds of vendors selling vintage jewelery, clothing, and accessories. It’s a fun activity that may result in finding some serious hidden gems. 
• Emporio Centrale: This novelty store has a well-curated selection of products made in Italy. You’ll find a wide range of items including kitchen wares, tinned fish, artisanal oils and vinegars, posters, candles, and more. This is an awesome spot to stock up on authentic souvenirs to hand out to friends and family when you get home. Or, pick up a stovetop espresso maker or ravioli mold to infuse some Italian flavor into your own kitchen.
• Monti: This neighborhood is known for its treasure trove of vintage finds. If you’re hoping to get your hand on some special second-hand pieces, plant yourself in Monti and peruse. Some highlights are Flamingo, Pifebo, Moll Flanders, and Blue Goose Vintage.

By day three, your feet might be hurting but your stomach and suitcase full, and your step count living to tell the tale of walking, eating, drinking, and sightseeing your way through Rome.