Gran Turismo: A Dreamy Road Trip in Emilia Romagna

The first thing that I did when I found out I’d be attending a luxury travel conference in Milan this March was book myself at Casa Maria Luigia and its restaurant Francescana, outside of Modena. Then I booked my flights. Priorities. 

I have been fortunate enough to spend a lot of time in Italy, so I have very clear parts of the country that are my ‘next up’ regions, and Emilia Romagna had been near the top of that list for ages. I longed to eat at Massimo Bottura’s legendary restaurant; I longed to visit the caseifici (cheese factories) and prosciutto producers of Parma; I longed to drive on the autostrada. And this was my chance! I had four nights to play with but did enough research to fill a month, at least. So, here is what I did mixed in with what I’d have added with more time. My grand tour went like this: Parma, Modena, a countryside hotel outside of Reggio Emilia, Cinque Terre, Genova, and Milan. And it was even dreamier than it sounds. 

I love to travel solo, especially before the full-on socializing and networking of a conference, so that’s how I tackled my time in Emilia Romagna — on my own. I highly recommend it. But you could very easily adapt this to a family or couple or group of friends, as well. 

We Begin in Parma 

I am personally a fan of hotels that make you feel like maybe you live there. And Italy has these in spades — hotels that share an old, historic building with apartments and maybe some offices, that you get a giant old key for, and enter through a massive door right from the street into a stone courtyard. No lobby. Breakfast made for you by the proprietress who is warm, friendly, and sends you to her friend’s restaurant around the corner for that life-changing pasta you would never have found otherwise. And so it was in Parma. 

I stayed at Al Battitsetro D’Oro, a b&b run by the fabulous Patrizia, who felt like a family friend who’d offered to let me stay. Parma isn’t known for its hotels otherwise, so I do recommend eschewing a grand lobby for a stay with Patrizia here. 

In the city itself, my best meal was at Bacco Verde (the place around the corner with the incredible pasta). I made a rookie mistake when trying to do a bit of shopping in town, which is that I meandered after lunch when everything was still shut, usually until around 3pm. I’d been looking for Credula Postero Antichità for some special homewares and souvenirs. But right around then, it began to rain so I also chose to miss my stop for a stroll in the gardens at Palazzo di Pilotto. 

Instead, I headed outside of the city for some culinary magic: I watched a generations-old parmigiano factory at work, I visited a women-owned prosciutto producer and tasted their incredible offerings, and finished up with a balsamic tasting at Acetaia Picci.

To Modena 

I may not look it, but I like to drive fast. So not only was the autostrada a genuinely fun (if slightly intimidating) experience, so too was the Museo Enzo Ferrari. About halfway through my visit to the museum, I could feel a passion for F1 involuntarily starting to form in my body. I found myself suddenly knowing who Charles Leclerc and Lewis Hamilton are. I think my TV back home even automatically recorded the next race. 

I regretted only budgeting enough time for the one museum, because there are two within fairly close proximity of each other. The Museo Enzo Ferrari is dedicated to the man himself and the brand’s historic (and some current) supercars. Then, in nearby Maranello, there is the Ferrari Museum which focuses on racing, F1, and team Ferrari. 

As I got back into the little Peugeot I’d rented, I also regretted not making time to drive a Ferrari around the track. When in Modena, ya know?

I roamed around town a bit and found my favorite coffee at Menomoka. By then, though, it was time to check in at Casa Maria Luigia, and so I skipped my researched stops at Mercato Albinelli, Schiavoni for panini, and Bloom for a gelato in order to save room for the feast I knew was ahead of me. 

I pulled into the long gravel driveway and my first thought was, I wonder if I can extend my stay? 

Casa Maria Luigia is the countryside estate-turned-hotel of Massimo Bottura, his wife Lara Gilmore, and their lovely family. And when they say “make yourself at home,” they really mean it. It is so rare to find a place that strikes a genuine balance between luxury and home-y, but they have nailed it. I checked into my room and made time to wander the property — the playground, where some of Massimo’s cars are on display; the pool which would be heaven in warm weather; the newly opened acetaia where they’re making gorgeous balsamic vinegars with both traditional and experimental techniques (as is the Bottura way). 

On property, they have Francescana at Casa Maria Luigia, which is an ode to the original Osteria Francescana in Modena. The restaurant in town offers updated and changing menus, whereas this Francescana plays the hits. And I wanted the hits. I got to taste some of the Bottura icons from the Parmigiano Five Ways (divine) to the Oops I Dropped the Lemon Tart (unforgettable) and 7 other courses in between. A religious experience. 

(For those keeping count, yes, I did a nine course tasting menu alone.) 

To Reggio Emilia

The next day, en route to Reggio Emilia, it was very strongly impressed on me to stop for lunch at La Nunzadeina, just a town or two away. And I am so glad to have obeyed. I spent another couple of hours a tavola here, trying their meticulously made Modenese food. The service was beyond friendly — we exchanged business cards and hugs and “a presto!’s” at the end — the food, the ambiance, the wine, the roaring fireplace at the back? Incredibly effective.

I feared for my next stop, trying to fill the shoes of Casa Maria Luigia and even La Nunzadeina. But I needn’t have. My next stop was the beyond dreamy, contemporary, idyllic Relais Roncolo 1888. Pinch me.

Again driving up its own gravel, winding road to the entrance, I had to laugh at how good it all was. Each bit massively adding to the last bit. 

I checked into my sumptuous room with a view over the gardens and courtyard, I slipped into my plush hotel robe, I sank into the bed and pulled my laptop over — it had been days since I’d gotten any work done. And this was technically a work trip. 

Thanks to pockets of sunny weather later in the afternoon, I found myself meandering from garden to pool to courtyard to restaurant to a wine or olive oil tasting, with absolutely nowhere else to be. The sweeping views and gorgeous grounds made clear just how perfect this place would be in the summertime. But I have to give credit where it's due because even when the fog persisted and the rain fell again that evening, I felt so perfectly cozy and content. 

‍Cinque Terre & Genova

Okay, I’ll be honest. I had never been to Cinque Terre and from all I’d heard, I never needed to. Too stuffy and crowded to walk, super touristy, and so on. But I am very glad that I got the chance to see it the way that I did because I get it now. 

Cinque Terre is fascinating and unique, a stunning and memorable day trip. Take one look at it from either the hills or the water and you will see just why it’s such a popular sight to see. But imagining walking down from the train station to the dock in stifling summer heat, shoulder to shoulder with tourists? Absolutely not. 

Here’s how I did it and how you should: I went with a guide who knows the area inside and out, so she could take me off the beaten track and up to look out spots with jaw-dropping views. She pointed out which restaurants had the best views and the best food, which ones were skip-able. She told me about the places for wine tasting up on the terraced vineyards. And then we talked about the way to see the Cinque Terre, which is by boat. 

Pro tip: DO NOT drive to or around Cinque Terre. First of all, you cannot get very close to the towns themselves by car, so you will be driving a long way and then still walking or otherwise commuting in. You aren’t likely to find parking, either. You train or you boat. Basta. 

My next stop was the unknown to me but utterly charming Genova Nervi. I stayed at the new hotel Capitolo Riviera, which I can’t recommend enough. It’s a contemporary, beautifully-designed boutique hotel just a short walk from the train station as well as the beach, another short walk along the orange tree-lined streets into town. The next morning, I …slept in. I apologize profusely. 

But, and I do say this threateningly, I’ll be back. 

A Milano

It was time to make my way to Milan, a city I adore, ahead of the conference. I had the great fortune to stay in the new Casa Brera hotel, which I can’t recommend enough. The design feels almost like if Kelly Wearstler were Italian; the rooftop bar and restaurant has a panoramic view of the city including the Duomo lit up at night; and the bed was cloud-like comfortable. 

I had mere hours to myself in Milan before the start of the many events and meetings to come, so I made good use of them: Libreria del Mare is the actual cutest bookstore focused entirely on seafaring titles in Italian and some in English, a sweet treat from the iconic Marchesi 1824 (because it had been MINUTES since I’d last eaten), and a quick look at some baubles at Giolina e Angelo. That evening, I met up with some colleagues and friends for a truly fantastic dinner at Al Barreto San Marco — the kind of restaurant that I both do and don’t want to share.

The next morning, we were off to the races. For the next four days, I hung out in Milan taking meetings with one hundred hoteliers and travel companies. I ate and drank and tested my vaguely conversational Italian. 

And in my precious few moments of downtime, I started planning my next Italian road trip. 

What to Pack 

Milan is so chic it’s almost intimidating. And since I was gone for a total of 12 days, I had a lot of ground to cover in just a carry-on. The trick is to create a color uniform and mix-and-match from there — I packed all black and cream (and jeans).  

My hero pieces below: 

This Jenni Kayne ivory cashmere sweater was the ultimate hero, because of course it goes with everything. Light enough to wear under a coat, cozy enough to wear on its own. 

These Banana Republic black satin trousers were surprisingly versatile — daytime with the ivory sweater, ballet flats, and a belt for meetings; evening with black pumps and big earrings. 

My trusty black suede Sam Edelman boots with a slim stacked heel were on regular rotation, as well. 

You’ll see my Mango camel wrap coat in 50% of my photos. 

I slathered Vintner’s Daughter serum on my face every evening, to save my skin from not only the airplane dryness but to hide the exhaustion that started to show after about a week or so of being on the go. 

My Ouai Leave-In Conditioner also goes everywhere with me — I wash my hair, spray that in, comb it through, and air dry. Easiest possible good hair day. 

And if there’s one thing I refuse to travel without, it’s this Downy Wrinkle Releaser Spray. I will not spend precious travel time ironing. I spray this on my clothing at least 30 minutes before I want to wear it, I scroll TikTok, and boom — ready to go.