Three Weeks in Europe: Where We Stayed, What We Ate, and the Outfits That Carried Me Through (With Two Kids)

The Journey

We began in Madrid, where we stayed with my brother-in-law and his kids. Mornings started slow (hello, 10am wake-up) and with no real agenda or responsibilities aside from learning the ins and outs of the city, I immediately felt an exhale. Our days stretched long – strolling down the leafy Retiro Park paths, wandering into boutiques along Salamanca, and lingering over multi-course tapas spreads, where a three-hour lunch easily became dinner. I swear, I don’t think we ever stopped eating. What I loved most about Madrid was how easy joy seemed to come by. Older folks were dancing in street corners; younger people completely off their phones simply enjoying each other’s company and friendship at open restaurants and bars. It was so lively, and refreshing.

From there, we made our way to Forte dei Marmi, a somewhat infamous seaside town about an hour drive away from Florence (we rented a car at the airport after flying into Florence) that hums with life at every hour. We parents found our way easily – espressos, matchas, and pastries at cafés tucked off Via Carducci, late dinners at hidden trattorias (the authentic hole-in-the-wall restaurants were some of my favorite meals) – but Forte’s magic was really in its family-friendliness. The kids zipped around the piazza in their little kid go-karts, spent afternoons at the Forte Fun park, and even rode mini ponies through the town square. It was a true family-friendly haven. We spent a Sunday at Maito, one of the beach clubs, which was fun for the whole family. My husband and I also enjoyed a romantic half-day trip to a tiny town called Viareggio, 20 minutes away, for an authentic Italian, picture-perfect afternoon.

In Florence, the pace shifted. We traded the coast for (hot) cobblestones, sun-soaked days spent climbing up to Piazzale Michelangelo for panoramic views, dipping into Uffizi’s Botticellis, and chasing gelato from shop to shop (there were a few days we had two each). Meals here tasted like they had been pulled straight from the earth–tomatoes so ripe they barely needed olive oil, pasta with truffle shavings that felt almost too decadent for a weekday lunch. My favorite memory, and meal, was a cooking class we did with The Cooking Touch where we made two types of pasta and a lava cake from scratch, beginning to end. The appetizer alone – a block of Parmesan cheese and a glass of red wine – was somehow remarkable and I’m still thinking about it today.

London was next – our busiest destination (it was *packed*) – yet it managed to feel both grand and intimate at once. It was amazing to see the city for the first time through my kids’ eyes. We strolled through Notting Hill’s pastel rows, lost ourselves in Soho’s energy, and let the kids burn out their boundless energy in Hyde Park and at The Princess Diana Memorial. Every building felt like it had a story, and every street, a different rhythm. We loved staying at the classic Claridge's in Mayfair, which felt much slower and more our pace.

We ended the trip in Oxfordshire, an incredible bookend for the trip with a gorgeous spa, rolling hills, and cozy stone fireplaces. The contrast to our first stop in Madrid couldn’t have been sharper, but maybe that’s what made it all so memorable–every place carried its own kind of magic, but where we stayed in Oxfordshire is one of my favorite places in the world to truly exhale.

Here’s a breakdown of my top recommendations, place by place: 

Madrid

Where to Stay

Santo Mauro: 10 min walk from the busiest areas of the city, ideally located for both shopping and park strolls, with easy access to Madrid’s best tapas spots. It was tasteful and beautifully designed -I  highly recommend it. 

Where to Eat

• Casa Dani – Iconic tortilla española at Mercado de la Paz, plus gambas worth dreaming about. For my LA local readers, we’re getting one at the Century City Mall sometime this year!
• Los 33 – Sleek date night pick; order the bikini sandwiches (a rec from my co-worker)
• Leña – Mini burgers for the kids, chic ambience for you.
• Aarde – Sunny terrace lunch with global flavors.
• Amazonico – VIP jazz bar energy; book ahead. The same co-worker mentioned above got us an amazing table for our date night, and it was another highlight of the trip!
• Charrua – Relaxed, delicious family dinner.
• Pateo de Leon or Four Seasons Rooftop – Farewell views over the city.
  

What to Do

• Evening walks along Calle Serrano and Jorge Juan.
• Parque de Retiro with frozen yogurt stops at KALA Greek or Myka.
• Museo Thyssen, Prado, or Reina Sofia.
• Designer shopping on Ortega y Gasset (ahem, visit the Loewe flagship store for some serious retail therapy).

Forte dei Marmi & Viareggio

Where to Stay

Grand Hotel Principe di Piemonte – Old-world elegance with sea views and a rooftop pool. Damn, this hotel was memorable. One of the oldest hotels in the region, it had an energy and magic to it that made me happy to be out of Forte proper. It’s a 20-minute taxi to Forte, but Principe’s stunning breakfast buffet alone made it worth it (and it didn’t hurt to see and talk to Kevin Spacey at breakfast).

Where to Eat

• Trattoria Tre Stelle – Unfussy, authentic, and always packed with locals.
• Bistrot Forte dei Marmi – Michelin-plate romance for date night.
• Ristorante Gilda – Dinner on the sand at sunset.
• Pesce Baracca – Fresh seafood and kid-friendly service.
• Osteria del Mare – Comfort meets craftsmanship.
• Lorenzo – The town’s most refined dining room; book early (we didn’t get in this trip unfortunately, but this one is the most highly recommended).

What to Do

• Bike to Bagno Piero or Bagno Annetta beach clubs. I walked everywhere!!
• Forte’s Wednesday market in Piazza Marconi (got a couple of fun Gucci dupe sets for friends)
• Day trip to Lucca or Viareggio for wall walks and picnics.
• Gelato at La Chicca

Florence

Where to Stay

Auberge Collegio Alla Querce - This hotel is *breathtaking*. The first Auberge in Europe (I’m a huge Auberge fan (see my reviews HERE, HERE, AND HERE). 

This is a 16th-century former boarding school turned Auberge, perched just 15 minutes above Florence. Think frescoed walls, cypress-lined drive, and the city’s largest pool (which we decided at the last minute we needed because of the kids and very hot Florence weather). The Collegio is equal parts old-world grandeur and modern hush, with olive groves, vaulted dining halls, and views of the Duomo that make you pause. I took the most pictures on the trips here–the ceramics, trees, interior details…all stunning and thoughtfully curated. I left thinking I needed two Tuscan terracotta full-body sculptures, but sadly just left with a hat.

Where to Eat

• Trattoria Zaza – Big menu, big heart, fun for kids.
• Golden View or Gusta Pizza – River romance or legendary slices.
• Trattoria 4 Leoni – Family-friendly with a lively piazza.
• La Giostra – A candlelit classic.
• Enoteca Coquinarious – Pear ravioli worth the trip.
• Trattoria Baldovino – Cozy night for mom and kids.
• Buca Lapi – Aside from our cooking night, this was my favorite restaurant of the trip. Get the gnocchi and meat.

What to Do

• Duomo and piazza walks.
• Accademia for Michelangelo’s David.
• Cappuccinos on the rooftop of La Rinascente.
• Boboli Gardens + Pitti Palace.
• Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy.
• Piazzale Michelangelo or Fiesole views.
• Private cooking class at The Cooking.
• Natural History or Science Museum - my kid’s favorite memory from the trip was the Leonardo Da Vinci Interactive Invention Museum.

London

Where to Stay

Claridge’s – Quintessential London luxury with impeccable service.

Where to Eat

• The Wolseley - one of my husband’s favorite restaurants in London.
• The Pelican – Notting Hill’s cozy pub with standout food.
• Bob Bob Ricard – Press for champagne.
• Hawksmoor – Comfort classics for the whole family.
• The Original Ivy – A Covent Garden icon.
• Berner’s Tavern – The ultimate grand dining room.

What to Do

• Hyde Park strolls.
• Knoops iced chocolate.
• Covent Garden shops.
• Afternoon tea at Claridge’s.
• Chocolate strawberries at the Borough Market.

Oxfordshire

Where to Stay

Soho Farmhouse – A countryside haven blending rustic charm with every modern comfort. One of my favorite places on earth.

Where to Eat

• Pen Yen – Japanese robata grill excellence.
• Main Barn – Buzzy and warm, perfect for families.

What to Do

• Bike rides, boating, pottery painting.
• Row a boat across the little lake for a peaceful (a surprisingly strenuous) experience 
• Swim in the iconic outdoor pool. 
• Take advantage of their new padel courts.
• Book a movie night if you can in their one-of-a-kind theater, hidden behind an extensive garden. We saw The Naked Gun, which I thought was really fun and sweet.
• Kids’ club is amazing for them, spa for you – book the Lazy Lake jacuzzi for a memorable experience.

Everything I Wore 

From linen dresses in Forte dei Marmi to polished tailoring in London, each look was chosen for both the setting and the mood. Once I add my full outfit list, you’ll see exactly what I packed, how I styled it, and the pieces that made it into heavy rotation.

• Hunza G, Peggy Bikini, $315
• Hemant & Nandita, Diza Cotton Midi Dress, $548
• DÔEN, Melanie Skirt, $298
• Enza Costa, Open Knit Tank Top, $245
• Reformation, Sara Linen Dress, $278
• DÔEN, Abre Short, $148
• DÔEN, Adeline Top, $268
• Versace, Underwater Barocco Cover-Up Shorts, $650
• SimonMiller, Loch Stripe Poplin Button Up, $255
• DÔEN, Sebastiane Skirt, $228
• DÔEN, Lois Tank, $108
• Reformation, Parma Dress, $268
• Zimmerman, Ascension Cuffed Floral Linen Playsuit, $725
• DÔEN Doris Top, $198
• DÔEN Darling Short, $228
• Hunza G, Sofia Gingham Headscarf, $35 
• SimonMiller, Raffia Bubble Slide, $295
• DÔEN, Augustina Dress, $350