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January is when most of us overcorrect. We overhaul our routines, crowd our vanities with new products, and promise ourselves this is the year we finally get skincare “right.”
Dermatologists tend to disagree with that approach. According to the experts, better skin rarely comes from doing more – it actually comes from doing less, consistently. The goal isn’t a 12-step routine. It’s a capsule skincare lineup: a small, intentional set of products that cover the essentials, work year-round, and actually earn their place on your vanity.
As part of The Quality Edit’s Sticky New Year – our January-long guide to upgrading your life with fewer, better things – we asked board-certified dermatologists what’s truly worth keeping in rotation. The result? A streamlined, evidence-backed roadmap to building a vanity that works now and keeps working all year long.
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Meet the Dermatologists
Dr. Jae Yong Ban is a board-certified dermatologist, the Medical Director of Banobagi Dermatology Clinic, and CEO of Bano Cosmetics. Based in South Korea, he plays a dual role in clinical care and cosmetic science, where he bridges medical-grade dermatology and consumer beauty, ensuring evidence-based practices inform the latest in skincare innovation.
Dr. Y. Claire Chang is a board-certified dermatologist at UnionDerm in New York City, specializing in laser, energy-based, and injectable treatments. She offers comprehensive dermatologic care, with a focus on skin of color and Asian beauty trends.
Why a Capsule Skincare Routine Works
Think of your skincare routine the way you think about your wardrobe basics. A great white T-shirt, a pair of perfectly broken-in jeans, a coat that works in every season – these pieces lay the groundwork for a solid, timeless wardrobe.
A capsule skincare routine functions the same way. Instead of overlapping actives or trend-driven formulas, dermatologists recommend focusing on foundational ingredients that protect the skin barrier, address common concerns, and play well together over time.
The Non-Negotiables: Ingredients Dermatologists Actually Recommend
1. Centella Asiatica (Cica): The Barrier Repair MVP
Why Dermatologists Recommend It:
Centella Asiatica is known for its anti-inflammatory and wound-healing properties. It helps calm redness, strengthen the skin barrier, and support recovery, making it especially valuable for sensitive, acne-prone skin.
“When the skin barrier is compromised, Centella is one of the first ingredients I reach for,” says Dr. Ban. He notes that it helps calm irritation while supporting the skin’s natural healing process.
Best For:
- Sensitive or reactive skin
- Acne routines involving strong actives
- Winter dryness or post-treatment recovery
Dr. Ban Recommends:
Dongkook Pharmaceutical Madeca Cream. The brand has formulated the product after five decades of pioneering expertise in centella asiatica.
2. Vitamin C: The Brightening Workhorse
Why Dermatologists Recommend It:
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that helps brighten dull skin, support collagen production, and protect against environmental damage from UV exposure and pollution.
“Vitamin C provides an instant boost of radiance and vitality to the skin,” says Dr. Ban, noting it’s often the first step for patients starting an anti-aging routine.
Best For:
- Dull or uneven skin tone
- Early signs of aging
- Anyone looking to maximize sunscreen protection
Derms’ Picks:
Dr. Chang suggests Skinceuticals’ CE Ferulic Serum. The serum has a combination of L-ascorbic acid, vitamin E and ferulic acid to repair the skin against damage from UV exposure, pollution and environmental stressors that contribute to premature aging and skin damage.
To sneak in an extra part of vitamin C, Goodal Green Tangerine Vita-C Dark Spot Care Pad is a great way to add in a dose of radiance, as recommended by Dr. Ban.
3. Niacinamide: The Team Player
Why Dermatologists Recommend It:
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is one of the most versatile ingredients in skincare. It helps regulate oil production, calm inflammation, improve uneven tone, and strengthen the skin barrier – all while layering seamlessly with other actives.
Think of it as the Robin to skincare’s Batman: it makes everything else work better.
Best For:
- Acne-prone or combination skin
- Enlarged pores
- Anyone building a routine with multiple actives
Derms’ Picks:
Dr. Chang calls out COSRX The Niacinamide 15 Serum, which has a high concentration of niacinamide to soothe inflammation, improve blemishing and complexion.
4. Ceramides
Why Dermatologists Recommend It:
For the unfortunate bunch who have sensitive or compromised skin, ceramides deserve a place on your vanity. Think of your skin barrier as a coat of armor, the first line of defense against the elements. Ceramides help reinforce the skin barrier, healing and strengthening so none of the skin’s enemies can slip in.
“Ceramides are natural lipids that help repair and strengthen the skin barrier. With cold, dry weather and with age, the levels of natural ceramides in our skin decrease, making it essential to replace with skincare.” Says Dr. Chang
Best For:
- Dry or sensitive skin
- Barrier damage from over-exfoliation
- Anyone using retinoids or acne treatments
Derms’ Picks:
AESTURA Atobarrier365 Cream is formulated with patented barrier-boosting ceramides and triple lipid complex to hydrate and strengthen the skin barrier.
The Year-Round Non-Negotiable: Sunscreen
If there’s one product every dermatologist agrees on, it’s sunscreen.
“Sunscreen is a non-negotiable for every person. I recommend broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or greater. UV radiation drives skin aging and skin cancers. Sunscreen mitigates DNA damage, photoaging, and pigmentation and should be worn year-round,” says Dr. Chang.
Her pick: EltaMD UV Physical, a tinted mineral sunscreen with broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB. Plus, tinted versions contain iron oxides that help with visible light protection.
Seasonal Adjustments (Add to Your Existing Routine)
When It’s Cold: Cold air, wind, and indoor heating can compromise the skin barrier. Dr. Chang recommends switching to thicker creams with higher oil content and using occlusive balms like CeraVe Healing Ointment on dry patches or lips. Dr. Ban suggests BANO PDRN 1000 Cream to help calm and restore stressed winter skin.
When It’s Hot: Heat, humidity, and UV exposure can overwhelm the skin. Dr. Ban recommends adding a calming step, like chilled jelly masks, to reduce inflammation. Dr. Chang emphasizes lightweight hydration, recommending AESTURA Atobarrier365 Lotion, which absorbs quickly without a sticky finish.
What About Devices?
For those who love a device for some added absorption help, both derms recommended a micro-vibration device. “(These devices) help skincare products absorb more effectively by aiding penetration between layers of the skin.” according to Dr. Ban. And Dr. Chang suggests a celebrity-favorite, the Medicube AGE-R Booster Pro. With LED, microcurrent, and EMS tech, Medicube’s Booster Pro is a beauty power tool to have handy. These tools aren’t essential, but they can enhance an already-solid routine when used correctly.
How to Build Your Capsule Skincare Routine
A great skincare routine is all about finding the few formulas your skin consistently responds to and keeping them in rotation.
Start with:
- One antioxidant
- One barrier-repair product
- One multitasking serum
- One moisturizer
- One sunscreen
Think of this as your skincare baseline – the products you come back to, no matter the season. A smaller vanity (with smarter choices) sets you up for better skin not just this January, but all year long.
