Late Checkout: A Long Weekend in Carmel and Monterey, Plus the Best Places to Stay

Late Checkout is TQE’s travel vertical. Whether you’re seeking an Eat Pray Love moment of your own, or a wholesome family sojourn, we hope you embark on an adventure requisite of a late checkout below.

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Nestled within a notch of California’s central coast lies an enchanting enclave unlike anywhere else you’ll encounter within the state. Here, you’ll enter a whimsical village fashioned like something out of a storybook fairy tale, discover a dramatically rugged coastline with everything from white-sand beaches to rocky outcrops and pine trees, and wander through neighborhoods teeming with maritime history and awe-inspiring wildlife.

The destination is unique and multi-faceted, comprising the quaint town of Carmel-by-the-Sea, historic Monterey, and the sun-soaked countryside of Carmel Valley. North of Big Sur and a two to three hour drive south of San Francisco, the area offers a little bit of everything you could want in a California adventure: beaches, wine, nature, culture, and history.

Sample it all with the following guide to the best things to see and do, plus our vetted recommendations of where to stay for an overall experience that’s as captivating as this stretch of coast itself.

Check Into Charming Carmel-by-the-Sea

Start your trip in Carmel-by-the-Sea. When you enter the city limits, it may feel as if you’ve stumbled inside the hard cover binding of a far-flung fairy tale. Whimsically warped homes look plucked from the pages of Hansel & Gretel with Tudor-inspired and ivy-laden buildings alongside flower-strewn pathways just barely hidden from plain sight. And it all overlooks turquoise blue ocean waters lapping onto sugary sand beaches framed by lush trees.

For decades, Carmel-by-the-Sea was a bohemian colony for artists and creatives, and that reputation still stands with scores of galleries and studios scattered around town. Pop in, and you might very well see the artist hard at work perfecting their craft.

Impossibly quaint, there are no street numbers in an effort to preserve the town’s unique spirit. Instead, homes are identified by names or cross streets and residents receive their mail at the local post office.

To soak up so much charm, book a stay at La Playa Carmel. The historic mansion dates back to 1905 and recently completed a $20 million renovation to usher the hotel into a modern era. There are 75 guest rooms, some of which overlook richly manicured gardens and a sparkling pool reminiscent of the South of France. The dramatically moody lobby, meanwhile, harkens back to turn-of-the-century sensibility with ornate upholstery, rich mahogany accents, heavy draped curtains, and a central fireplace.

For something more mod, the Stilwell Hotel is one of the newest choices in town, following a spring 2024 opening. Staying here is more of a bespoke boutique experience with 42 guest rooms, all of which are gleaming and contemporary with a soft coastal-inspired palette, dry bars, thermostat shower heads, fluffy robes, and plush bedding. I recently checked into their Courtyard Suite and felt cocooned in luxury, which felt refreshing amid a slew of other accommodations that lean more to quaint inns or B&Bs. A gourmet breakfast is included daily and a lovely outdoor courtyard invites gathering among firepits and a waterfall feature, with pizzas baked in an on-site oven.

If you’d rather straddle the line between history and luxury, another fine option is L’Auberge Carmel, a historic and deeply elegant hideout built in 1929. A Relais & Châteaux property, there are just 20 rooms with four poster or tufted canopy beds and original antiques from the 18th, 19th, and 20th centuries. Some rooms overlook a serene central courtyard, and the hotel is also home to the two Michelin star restaurant, Aubergine.

A Perfect Day in Carmel-by-the-Sea

Wherever you choose to lay your head, plan to spend most of your time strolling around the atmospheric town, which is laid out in grid formation and covers just one square mile. 

Caffeinate with a fresh-brewed drink, best paired with a pastry from Carmel Bakery. Founded in 1899, Carmel Bakery calls itself California’s oldest bakery still in its original location, and inside, you’ll salivate over glass cases stacked high with sweet treats of all sorts. 

Grab a few and walk down to Carmel Beach where you can sit on the soft white sand and take in the panoramic vistas of this stunning swath of coastline. The beach is deep and wide framed by thick trees and flanked by Scenic Road, an aptly-named drive that’s ideal for a morning walk. 

Next, seek out some of Carmel’s hidden passageways and courtyards. There are 41, and many are found alongside interesting shops, galleries, and restaurants. I like the secret garden pathway to the Thomas Kinkade Art Gallery, which feels like you’ve stumbled onto a magical discovery. 

Finally, save time for shopping on Ocean Avenue. There are no chain stores allowed in Carmel-by-the-Sea, so you’re guaranteed to take home a unique memento of the trip.

Moving Over to Monterey 

A visit to Carmel-by-the-Sea and Monterey should go hand-in-hand. Both are scenic and memorable and each is wholly different. 

The latter’s origins trace back to the 1700s, and in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Monterey became well known for its fishing and canning enterprises. The city’s Cannery Row was even immortalized by author John Steinbeck in his novel of the same name.

These days, those industries have declined and left a buzzing tourist destination in their wake, as well as a collection of interesting places to stay.

I like Monterey Beach Hotel, positioned outside of the town center but close enough to access with ease. It’s actually the only true beachfront property in Monterey, with direct access to crashing waves across white sand. The hotel reopened last year after a major renovation and rebrand (formerly Monterey Tides) with 192 guest rooms, oceanfront dining, private beach access, complimentary e-bikes, a large gym, terraces lined with fire pits for nightly s’mores, a social wine hour, a large heated outdoor swimming pool, and they’re set to add standalone saunas and cold plunges on an outdoor wellness deck any day now.

But the real draw are the views. All encompassing, the lobby is awash in the blue tones of the ocean as seen through floor-to-cieling windows, and the guest rooms that face the ocean have large picture windows to admire the views. You’ll fall asleep to the rhythmic crashing of waves, heard even with the door closed. The Lantern Room, the hotel’s on-site restaurant serves excellent coastal-inspired fare in an upscale setting, and is well worth a booking whether or not you’re staying on-site.

For something closer to the major sights of Monterey, Monterey Plaza Hotel is nautically-themed and feels as if you’ve boarded a luxury yacht with glossy polished wood and maritime accents. Rooms are spacious and many are perched above the water; use the in-room binoculars for direct views of sea otters swimming outside the window, or, depending on the season, whales in the distance. 

The adults-only rooftop sundeck is a nice touch with two whirlpool spa tubs, a fireplace, a sauna, and steam room that’s available to all guests. Two additional family-friendly outdoor hot tubs are also available on a lower floor. Save room for a bite at Schooner’s, a waterfront restaurant serving seafood with a beautiful patio. While a small sandy area can be found outside the hotel, it’s more for boat launches than swimming, though you’re welcome to do so.

For a more remote locale still within a short drive of Monterey, The Sanctuary Beach Resort is located on 19 acres of the Marina Dunes Preserve. The 60 bungalow-style rooms and suites were recently renovated and are clustered amid bluffs facing the ocean. There’s also a seaside-inspired spa, a restaurant with an oyster bar, beach bonfires, and a peaceful courtyard for gathering.

Much To Do In Monterey

Monterey is known for its coastal beauty, as well as some of the most popular attractions in the area.

No visit is complete without a trip to the Monterey Bay Aquarium. It houses more than 35,000 animals representing over 550 species in nearly 200 exhibits. Schedule a few hours to meander around the 24 galleries, taking in magnificent fish, octopus, sharks, sea turtles, and penguins. Many hands-on exhibits invite curious exploration while various decks and terraces bring the outdoors in. Don’t miss the Into the Deep exhibit, which explores the mysterious animals of the dark, deep sea. 

Before or after, save time to check out the charm of adjacent Cannery Row and Old Fisherman’s Wharf. Today, it’s mostly a hub for tourist activity and stores selling tchotchkes, but it’s interesting to walk through and imagine the days when it was nothing more than a center for sardine canning.

After a day of sightseeing, head to the coast and for a stop at Asilomar State Beach for beach combing and tide pooling. A raised boardwalk weaves through sand dunes and sea grasses, leading to a wide-open beach, as well as rocky shores ripe for tide pooling and spotting marine creatures. 

If hunger strikes, Ad Astra is a fantastic micro bakery in downtown Monterey focusing on natural leavened bread that also has casual breakfast pastries and hearty sandwiches — or grab a loaf of sourdough and call it a meal.

Alta Bakery & Cafe is also excellent with fresh-baked pastries, toasts, and frittatas. The best strategy is to ask for a box and point to everything that looks good. If available, the ginger scone, fruit strudel, and spinach and cheese croissant are all incredible.

You can also venture further north within Monterey County to explore Moss Landing, a popular spot for antiquing, beach going, and nature, and Castroville, a small agricultural town known as the "Artichoke Capital of the World." A few miles inland from Monterey Bay, you’ll feel worlds away surrounded by long lines of farm fields. Try the signature menu item served in scores of different ways (Fried! Steamed! Grilled! On a sandwich! In soup!), either at a local farm stand or food truck (I enjoyed The Choke Coach), or at The Giant Artichoke Restaurant.

Venture Out to the Valley

While the allure of the ocean is no doubt a focus in these parts, it would be a mistake to come this far and skip a trip inland.

Plan for a day or two ensconced within lush greenery, working wineries, farm-to-table fare, and sun-drenched landscapes. In my opinion, there’s really only one place to stay: Carmel Valley Ranch.

Every room is a villa-style studio or multi-bedroom suite spread over 500 acres in the foothills of the Santa Lucia Mountains. The grounds are exquisite with rolling green hills, a four-acre pinot noir vineyard, three swimming pools — including an adults-only option with a jaw-dropping infinity edge hot tub overlooking the entirety of the resort — an 18-hole Pete Dye-designed golf course, and an on-site farmstead with an organic garden, apiary, salt house, hen house, and animals such as goats, sheep, alpaca, donkeys, and horses. 

The Ranch also offers one-of-a-kind adventures from beekeeping and honey harvesting to hilltop yoga, foraging walks, hikes, archery and cooking classes. There’s also a treetop spa, and the must-dine Valley Kitchen serving fiercely fresh fare sourced from local farms (and the hotel’s own garden), best paired with a wine from the hotel’s own catalog.

If you can manage to tear yourself away from such bucolic bliss, a few standouts await in the area.

Earthbound Farm is a short drive, with much more than produce for sale, though that's plentiful, and beautiful. There are also fresh cut flowers, artisan goods, gardening accessories, and a robust menu with hearty sandwiches, colorful salads, loaves of bread, and refreshing smoothies. Take your food to enjoy on a picnic table set amid the picturesque grounds filled with fragrant lavender. A towering Redwood tree looms tall, keeping watch over string light-lit grassy areas, as well as a cut-your-own herb garden and a whimsical play area.

If you’d like to sample additional wines, Folktale Winery is set over five acres, with wines that are 100% organically farmed meticulously by hand. Their varieties embrace bright, acidic styles that are meant to be paired with the region’s farm-grown foods.

If you have the time, Carmel Valley Village is another good place to stop, with a walkable town center filled with art galleries, wine tasting rooms, and restaurants. Patricia Qualls Contemporary Art is one such option, a 1400-square-foot studio specializing in large-scale paintings. 

Or, for a bit of nature, Garland Ranch Regional Park is dog friendly and popular for hiking with historic buildings dotted around the grounds.